Volcanic Wines

History: 1983 is the year of Donnafugata vineyard establishment. Today, this is one of the most famous and impressive brands of Sicilian wine. Beauty, flavor, vivid and unbridled emotions, and artisanship are the principles the brand is based on. The name «Donnafugata» means «a wind-blown lady»; that is why the company’s logo is an image of a young woman with wind-blown hair.

Vineyards: today Donnafugata owns 400 hectares of vineyards. Since 2016, Donnafugata is engaged in the Sul Vulcano project on the northern slope of Etna (Rondazzo winery). Vines are cultivated on 21 hectares of tuff and sandy soils at a height of 730–750 meters in the communes of Randazzo and Castiglione di Sicilia.

In 2022, Donnafugata presented a collaboration of volcanic wines with the Sicilian brand Dolce&Gabbana, introducing collection of bottles with design labels in special gift boxes. White wine segment is presented by Isolano (Carricante) while Cuordilava (Nerello Mascalese) fills the red wine niche.

Fast facts: Donnafugata winery is among the TOP 3 wine companies in Italy according to the Global Wine Brand Power Index 2021.

Each wine bottle label is crafted by artist Stefano Vitale. These unique labels are the winery signature.

Donnafugata contributes to Sicily’s economic and cultural development. It is a venue for regular jazz multisensory programs where each wine is combined with a music composition whose rhythm enhances the experience of wine tasting.

Wines of Sicily — Etna.

The largest number of volcanic wines originate on islands and the mainland of Italy. Sicily is the most famous region of volcanic viticulture and owes its popularity to Etna, the highest active volcano in Europe.

For a long time, vines on the slopes of the Sicilian volcano remained abandoned. However, in the 1990s, the region experienced a real upsurge thanks to several winemakers. These days, hardly any land plot remains vacant on the volcano slopes: there are approximately 150 wine farms on Etna, 140 of which emerged within the last 20 years.

Etna soils are extremely diverse and contain basalt, pumice, and a thick layer of volcanic ash. Because of regular eruptions, soil composition is constantly changing and vineyards are threatened by lava streams. Winemakers that grow grapes on Etna slope soils are related to heroic viticulture due to several reasons:

• Mount Etna is an active volcano and operations in this region impose a risk to life; 

• Soils on the slopes are rocky and difficult to work; 

• Slope height and steepness make winemakers’ work even more difficult.

Etna vineyards cover an area of 908 hectares. They are located at heights of 400 to 1000 meters. Two indigenous varieties prevail on the volcano slopes: Nerello Mascalese and Carricante.

Etna wines are often compared with wines from Burgundy, while the major local grape variety Nerello Mascalese is compared with Pinot Noir. Parallels between Etna and Burgundy are not incidental: on Etna, there are no large vineyards but over one hundred of small yards (contradas) and a whole gamut of various soils. Thus, one manufacturer may produce a dozen of Nerello Mascalese wines from different contradas and indicate their names on labels.

Some of Donnafugata’s vineyards are located on Pantelleria island. There, Antonio and Josè Rallo of Donnafugata create Ben Ryé, Passito di Pantelleria that tops each and every rating as the best sweet wine in Italy. The grapes for Ben Ryé are harvested from century-old vines, then dried by sun and wind for about one month.

Other two wines by Donnafugata also originate from Pantelleria: Lighea and Kabir, a premium and intriguing duo of totally different wines from Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria) that is harvested in September when Muscat is ripe and full of sweetness.

Wines of Pantelleria.

Pantelleria is an Italian volcanic island that lies 100 km off the Sicily coast and 70 km off Tunisia. The Pantelleria DOC is known for ancient volcanic soils (in this region, volcanoes erupted 30 million years ago) and for the Muscat of Alexandria grape variety. On this small island, some of the best white wines in the world are produced.

Pantelleria is the island of heroic wine-making. There, vines, planted on terraces into special holes in volcanic soil, virtually creep upon the ground. Harvesters on Pantelleria should make two to three times greater effort than usual to pick grapes.

History: Feudi di San Gregorio is an Italian winery in Irpinia appellation, established in 1986.

Vineyards: Feudi owns 300 hectares of land — it is the largest winery in the region of Campania. Many grapevines are more than one hundred years old and some are even two hundred years. Vineyards are located at a height of about 400 meters which helps grapes maintain a perfect acidity that is rare for southern Italy.

Feudi’s volcanic wines, Taurasi and Greco di Tufo, have been produced for many years. Connoisseurs can taste old vintages and see how volcanic wines evolve over time.

Fast facts: in 2011, the Italian Sommelier Association named Feudi di San Gregorio the Best Winery in Italy. The company has a strong focus on enogastronomy, with haute cuisine restaurant Marennà on the winery grounds (awarded one Michelin star in 2009).

Wines of Campania.

Campania is the most volcanic Italian region with both extinct and active volcanoes. Among them are two super volcanoes: Vesuvius and Campi Flegrei with its 90 craters. The last time when Vesuvius erupted was in 1944 and its eruptions influenced soil composition in wine-making areas in the Irpinia zone that is 50 km off the volcano.

Irpinia is a historic region in the Apennines, a unique viticulture and wine-making area where vineyards always grew side-by-side with orchards, forests, olive groves, and grain fields. Almost all appellations in this region grow on new and old volcanic soils.

History: Le Piane winery was established in the 1990s through the initiative of Christoph Künzli and enologist Alexander Trolf.

Vineyards: are located on 8 hectares in Boca (Novara province) in North-East Piedmont near Ghemme and Gattinara. Le Piane vineyards are among the highest vineyards in the region and are located at a height of 400–500 meters. Most of the wines are made from old grapevines over 100 years old.

Fast facts: Every year, starting from the 2003 vintage, Le Piane wines are distinguished with prestigious awards. Boca several times received 3 wine glasses from Gambero Rosso, up to 96 points from Robert Parker, and 17 points from Jancis Robinson.

Le Piane is committed to organic viticulture; however, its wines have not yet been formally certified.

Wines of Piedmont.

In the river Sesia valley in North Piedmont, there is a crater of a very ancient (288 mln years) volcano at whose bottom Monte Rosa, an Alpine mountain is located. In this region, lava rock lies up to 30 km deep. The remains of the ancient super volcano are home to most of the major appellations in North Piedmont: Gattinara DOCG, Gemme DOCG, Lessona DOC, Bramaterra DOC, and Boca DOC.

Soils in the region are volcanic and rocky. The region is notable for a wide temperature range within one day and for the winds that blow from the Monte Rosa summit.

In Piedmont, red wines are predominant.

History: In 2010, old friends Cristiano Garella and Giacomo Colombera decided to merge efforts for a new project. They invited Giacomo’s father Carlo and established a winery in Masserano, in the North Piedmont Mountains. It is an area of old terroirs formed by volcanic activity 330 mln years ago. Soils can be highly acidic there, with a rather low pH value (about 4), and often have high iron content.

Vineyards: the company owns 9.5 hectares of vineyards in three different DOCs. Colombera&Garella practice sustainable winegrowing. They use only natural yeast and reduce SO2 treatment to a minimum. The winery grows three grape varieties: Nebbiolo, Croatina, and Vespolina.

Fast facts: because of heights and low pH, most of this region’s wines (unlike the Langhe wines) are low alcohol and have «ironish» minerality.

Wines of Piedmont.

In the river Sesia valley in North Piedmont, there is a crater of a very ancient (288 mln years) volcano at whose bottom Monte Rosa, an Alpine mountain is located. In this region, lava rock lies up to 30 km deep. The remains of the ancient super volcano are home to most of the major appellations in North Piedmont: Gattinara DOCG, Gemme DOCG, Lessona DOC, Bramaterra DOC, and Boca DOC.

Soils in the region are volcanic and rocky. The region is notable for a wide temperature range within one day and for the winds that blow from the Monte Rosa summit.

In Piedmont, red wines are predominant.

History: the Travaglini winery was established in the 1920s by Clemente Travaglini. In 1958, his son Arturo Travaglini became the head of the winery and achieved a quantum leap in the brand development. Today, Travaglini is ruled by the fourth generation of the family: Cinzia Travaglini manages day-to-day operations at the winery. Her husband Massimo is the chief enologist.

Vineyards: Travaglini is the largest producer in the Gattinara DOCG zone (North Piedmont) where the winery owns 59 of 100 hectares. 44 hectares of land are covered in vineyards that are located 250–550 meters above sea level. Soils are of volcanic origin.

Fast facts: in 1958, Giancarlo Travaglini decided to introduce a new, irregular bottle shape. Today, the unique bottle is patented. According to Giancarlo, the special design allows retaining sediment when the wine is served or decanted (in those times, decanters were not used yet). This bottle shape is used for the Gattinara DOCG focus line as a wine with maximum storage potential. The glass is very dark and nontransparent in order to protect wine from sunlight.

Wines of Piedmont.

In the river Sesia valley in North Piedmont, there is a crater of a very ancient (288 mln years) volcano at whose bottom Monte Rosa, an Alpine mountain is located. In this region, lava rock lies up to 30 km deep. The remains of the ancient super volcano are home to most of the major appellations in North Piedmont: Gattinara DOCG, Gemme DOCG, Lessona DOC, Bramaterra DOC, and Boca DOC.

Soils in the region are volcanic and rocky. The region is notable for a wide temperature range within one day and for the winds that blow from the Monte Rosa summit.

In Piedmont, red wines are predominant.